Wednesday 15 December 2010

The Dutse Dubar

I have just read Beth's blog about the Muslim Festival that happened in November. The 'second sallah.' You may remember a previous blog post about the 'first sallah' when we went to Kano to celebrate.

We heard that there were going to be good celebrations in Dutse, as it is the capital of Jigawa State so there were 5 VSOs altogther in my Palace and I am proud to announce that we were all from different countries. 5 VSO's representing 5 nationalities.

We had a lovely time and I learnt some good cooking skills and market tips from the others.

The 2 most wonderful moments were that I finally got to experience traditional music and dance in Nigeria. This time each town that paraded brought dancers and musicians. I can't believe that it has taken this long to hear music and dance in Nigeria, apart from in the church.

The second most wonderful moment was on the third day of the parades, all the women and children came out of the homes to watch the parades. I hardly see women so it was a magical moment to place myself amongst (very short - so I could hardly blend in) woman and children.

So please click on the link to hear Beth's tales of her visit to Dutse, photos of the parade and the Emir's Palace.
http://bethharrison.me.uk/?p=145
Thanks Beth

Tuesday 14 December 2010

Roads in Dutse

Dutse is a small rural town, in a rural state so I am told that it does not represent the whole of Nigeria, but on my first day here when I saw an ox and cart go past my window and I knew I was in Africa!
I thought this blog post would help to give you an idea of the town that I am living in.

You can expect to see anything on these roads, from a donkey laden with piles of sticks ridden by a haggled old man to a large green tortoise crossing the road! (I really did see one once. I was asking the driver so many questions about it that he thought I wanted to go back and ‘pick it!’)
This is the main road in the town. (It is usually busier than this.) You can see the trucks, cars, motorbikes. . . You may also see lorries, bicycles and tractors. There is no pavement so you just walk along (carefully, as at any time, any vehicle can come straight at you, usually a motorcycle) in the dust at the side. I was terrified walking along the roads at first because if you imagine walking along Bournemouth seafront on a sunny day in August and there are crowds of people passing you by in both directions, well this is how close the motorbikes and cars drive past you. I was really worried for my feet being ridden over at first but I am used to it now. This main road is swept by women everyday and as you can see it is in a good condition as most of the roads in Dutse are. Also amongst all the traffic you find can men pushing wheelbarrows, usually full of large containers of water that they are transporting to homes from the well. Be prepared to stand aside for a herd of cows (with horns), sheep, goats and chickens. These dirt roads were treacherous to walk down in the rainy season and are strewn with rubbish. You also see the lizards running everywhere here. This was the road to the guest house where I lived for the first couple of months. You always witness vehicles in this state with numerous number of people on the back. It is a common sight to find ones toppled over on the side of the road. But this doesn’t stop the Nigerians though as they just load everything back in again and continue their journey. This was my view from the guest house window. Everyone dumps their rubbish in a pile on the side of the road. (The rubbish pile in on the left, behind the sign board.) You can find people sifting through the rubbish and goats and chickens eating it. Sometimes a truck comes to take the rubbish away and put sand on top, then a new rubbish pile is made in a different location. Other times the rubbish is burnt. At the sides of the roads they have these big drains to catch the rainwater. You often have to balance along the wobbly planks of wood to reach a shop. They drains usually get clogged up with the rubbish and then you see some poor boys standing up to their knees in sewage, sifting it out.And finally, this is the road to my house, Gida Goma which means 10 houses as there are 10 houses on the street. The building in the middle is the mosque for the men to pray in. My house is just behind the tree on the right with the motorbike parked outside. I am lucky to be living in one of the posh-est streets in the town!

So this is a small glimpse of the town, Dutse, that I am living in. It has taken me a long time to get used to the roads and the way things look but now, although I still don’t understand how the traffic works, and I don’t think I could ever drive on these roads - it is not strange to me anymore.

Friday 10 December 2010

IQTE (Islamiyya, Qur’anic, Tsangaya Education)

In these schools the main focus of education is on recitation and understanding of the Qur’an.

Sometimes these schools operate either in the morning or evening and children attend them either before or after their primary school hours.

Other times the children are sent away from home to live in these schools. In this case the school is centred around a teacher called a Malam, and the children, as well as studying the Qur’an, are taught to fend for themselves, e.g. begging for food and money to survive. These children often have to work on farms and sleep on the streets. These children can range in age from 5 years old to 17 years old – all in the same class!

In this second case a project has been set up to introduce the teaching of secular subjects – English, Maths and Hausa (the local dialect). This is because a large number of children who do attend schools are attending Qur'anic schools like these and are not getting a basic primary education. So the religious teachers- the Malams - have selected a respected member of the community, who have completed their secondary education, to teach the secular subjects to their students.

I have been supporting the training of these teachers in Kano State, to gain a better understanding of the project, as they will soon bring this project to Jigawa State (the state I am based in).

One of the topics I was teaching the Tsangaya teachers was how to teach time, just o’clock and half past times. The majority of them did not know how to tell the time to o’ clock and half past! So as well as teaching them methodology of how to teach time I am trying to teach them how to tell the time at the same time!

As English is their second language, there is varying levels of understanding, and the teaching often has to be translated. So it is quite a different and interesting way of teaching.

Those of you who are from St Aldhelm’s School will be pleased to hear that I shared the poem ‘Have you ever seen?’ from the Year 3 plans. As the students have already learnt verbs, colours and animals it is the perfect way to begin forming sentences and making/reading poems. The teachers had great fun making up silly sentences and they were amazing at drawing the imaginative pictures. We then gave a dramatic performance to the management of the project and attracted a lot of attention from anyone passing by!

For those of you who don’t know, their poems went something like. . .

Have You Ever Seen?
Have you ever seen a white lizard reading?
Have you ever seen a green chicken laughing?
Have you ever seen a red dog sweeping?
Have you ever seen a pink goat writing?
Have you ever?

Another project that the teachers were doing was to make simple books in Hausa for their classes to read.

For anyone who would like to help. . .

I know that the community teachers would love to have more books in their classrooms for their students to read and improve their English and I expect that these children have never held or read a book before.

The book I made for demonstration was the poem written above. I took one page for each line of the poem and drew a wonderful picture to go with the sentence. (Actually I had help with the drawing!)

So if anyone would like to a make a picture book using very simple English, it would be much appreciated by all. Even one book will make a huge difference to a class of children who go to work on a farm in the morning, sudy the Qur’an in the afternoon, then go an beg for food in the evenings. You can often see them on the streets with ripped, filthy clothes, shoeless, clutching their plastic bowl for food.

Thursday 9 December 2010

Class Teacher Module 1 (CT1)

Over the past couple of months we have been working towards training 900 class teachers and head teachers in Jigawa State for what is known as CT1 – Class Teacher Module 1.

There have been copious amounts of planning and preparation. The first has been to decide the content of the workshop to deliver to the teachers. Next the schools had to be selected, followed by which teachers from those schools would be invited. Then we delivered the training to the SSIT (State School Improvement Team). Now, finally, the SSIT go to their various towns throughout the state and deliver the workshop to the teachers.

I travelled to towns called Birniwa and Malam Madori which are approximately 2 ½ hours away from where I am living in Dutse. I supported and mentored some members of the SSIT in delivering the workshop to the class teachers.

It was wonderful to meet and train with the teachers and head teachers to hear their positive feedback about how the previous training has really improved their schools and made them happier in their jobs. The head teachers admit that they had no idea on how to run a school before and they are really pleased to be trained in managing a school and involving the community to support improvements.

Some of the topics the teachers are being trained on are
• how children learn best, e.g. child centred approach to teaching
• how to ask open questions to get children to think - at present the main question asked is ‘do you understand?’ to which the reply is always ‘yes’
• raising children’s self esteem, rather than telling them they are wrong and stupid or shouting at them and intimidating them
• how to get children to work in pairs
• how to use local materials to support learning e.g. stones, bottle tops, sticks etc.

Now that the training has been delivered to the class teachers I am looking forward to joining the SSIT in visiting schools and supporting class teachers and head teachers in practising these new approaches.

Saturday 30 October 2010

The Queen's Palace

During my first few days in Nigeria I was given the nickname 'Queen of Jigawa!' This was because I was the first volunteer to be sent to Jigawa, the furthest, hottest and most Northern State. When hearing that I was going to Jigawa, Nigerian eyes would widen. All they could tell me was that it was 'soo far' and 'soo hot!' I was also being sent here alone, with my closest VSO an hour and a half away, whilst most others had support of other VSOs in their towns.

When I finally moved into my accommodation I realised that I was the Queen, as I had been given the most wonderful house to live in. Nigerian colleagues say that they have never seen such a house in Jigawa. So my house is nicknamed 'The Palace.' (It was even called a castle by one.)




This is the entrance to the palace. I am stood with the driver who 'picks' me in the mornings. One of the watchmen are opening the door for me in the background.




Jenny and Simon, visiting from Kaduna, are enjoying a G & T on my well. . . until a cockroach came and sent us indoors. The banana tree behind them is apparantly too small to fruit this year. The TV doesn't work yet, but I'm told I just need to register. I have a huge disk in the garden so I can buy a card for more channels.


This lovely kitchen has running water, a large fridge, a huge freezer, and a larder. The larder reminds me of my childhood readings of Enid Blyton. I did have large furry visitors the last couple of nights though because I left a bag of flour on the worktop!

The house is large and fully furnished. The 3 double bedrooms all have onsuite bathrooms! (Imagine the bathrooms looking a bit run down like the kitchen.) It is amazing because so far my electricity supply has been very good (I think because I am in the posh area of town), I also have aircon and fans in all rooms. When the water stops flowing I press a switch in the garden and it pumps water from the well or this other sort of covered swimming pool water storeage, so I am supposidly never going to run out of water. . . although I am constantly expecting my water and electricity luck to end soon!

But the most wonderful thing about my palace is the garden. It is truely magical, full of trees, bushes, flowers and wildlife .

For the fruit trees alone, there are no less than 4 mango trees, 2 banana trees, grape vines, 3 date bushes, a pawpaw tree, 2 orange trees, plus many others that I haven't heard or tasted yet.

I even have a 'secret garden' in which you have to open the gate and duck under the arch. I have now bought chairs and tables which are under a thatched covering inside here. In here, you are hidden from anyone who enters the high walled and guarded compound :0)

To get to the kitchen I have to go outside through a little courtyard that has a delicious smelling jasmine tree.

At the moment I am living alone, but soon another VSO will come a join me - a man from Uganda.

PS - Check out the weather on the right hand side of the page: Harmattan has arrived, which is the season where the winds bring dust from the Sahara desert. It was very misty today with a light breeze.

Wednesday 27 October 2010

Colleges of Education

A fellow VSO who is working in a College of Education in a different state told me some shocking facts.

1. Teaching is the last resort career option. Anyone can get onto this course. It is often the option that students are forced to if they are not accepted for other courses.

2. Far too many students are accepted onto the course so it is completely overcrowded, with as many as 7 students to squashed to a small desk.

3. The students give the lecturers N20-30 during the assessments for the lecturer to turn their heads while they copy their friends. (Imagine out of 1000s of students how much money the lecturers will receive on the side)

4. Boys give the lecturers money to pass the courses, whilst girls offer sexual favours.

5. Girls who already have children have no option but to bring them to class. They are forced to breast feed their babies in the extremely inadequate and unhygienic toilet facilities. This is probably a stinking hole in the ground surrounded by 3 walls and a door hanging off. No running water nearby.

6. Especially some village girls who cannot speak English at all and have had very little education are qualifying to be Primary School teachers due to the above.

7. The lecturers freely admit to the above happening and don’t seem to be aware of how immoral it is. This is obviously the cycle that they went through themselves.

So this is the state of the teachers that the colleges are producing.

VSO say that this is corruption and not culture.

Thursday 21 October 2010

Schools in Kwara State

Last week I had the privilege of visiting Kwara State (western Nigeria) where they are tackling the education situation in a different way from our programme in Jigawa State and also started a couple of years before us.

Their State School Improvement Team (SSIT), supported by British consultants, have been focussing their efforts on training class teachers and they are also writing literacy and numeracy plans for years 1-6 for the teachers to follow (which I am now helping to edit). Their successes are also a result of all the government departments in the state working collaboratively together to make changes happen.


So, it kind of looks promising from the photo – classroom layout. . . group work . . . questioning skills. . .text books . . .class sizes.

BUT. . .


This school we visited (around 10am) had only ONE teacher in the whole school!!! 10 of their teachers were on some sort of summer course that had run over the summer holidays. The head teacher, who was also bringing 2 other teachers to schools, had broken down on the way and hadn’t made it in yet! So, here was a whole primary school full of children, with only a single year 1 teacher teaching her class!

I actually felt sick from the shock of what I was witnessing throughout these visits. This state, being ahead of the other 5 states (out of 36 states) that ESSPIN (Education Support Sector Programme in Nigeria) is working in, is the best that Nigeria has to offer its children!

With the children being more active you could also get a small glimpse of the poverty that they are living in . . . rashes on bodies, ripped and threadbare uniforms, sharing drops of water to quench thirst.

And truthfully, the quality of teaching we saw from a small selection of schools in the state is not even close to being as good as the quality of the resource shown in the photo! And although the teachers have welcomed the lesson plans and they are following them to some degree, they clearly have little or no understanding of them. And it’s no wonder when you remember that these teachers cannot even pass the level of literacy and numeracy of our Year 4 children.

But despite all this there was some sort of miniscule glimmer of hope in the fact that that Year 1 teacher was really trying her best, attempting to follow the lesson plan and to use child centred methods.

Wednesday 13 October 2010

Schools in Jigawa State

Finally, after living in Nigeria for 9 weeks as a VSO Teacher Trainer, I have had the experience of visiting schools. The reason it has taken so long was because I arrived at the start of the school holidays and the children have only just returned to school!

I visited about 8 schools in Jigawa over a week and the photos below demonstrate the horrendous situation that the education system is faced with here (and I had a feeling that they were trying to show me the best of what they had).



This is a photo of a Year 6 class from a boarding school in the main town. There were 128 children in the class. They had to sit through 2 hours and 20 minutes of lessons before they were served breakfast. One of the other Year 6 classes that we visited in this school didn’t have a teacher, so this many children were just sat alone, waiting. . . Amazingly the head teacher didn’t seem to even realise there was no teacher until I asked where they were!


This is a class of around 100 nursery and Year 1 children from a rural school. It’s no wonder that when I and 4 other Nigerians swarmed into their classroom that it began a cascade of crying. They stopped fairly promptly when shouted at by the other adults. The concrete floor the children are sat on is in such a dreadful state, but actually this is an extremely minor element of the crisis these children are facing with their education.
This PE lesson (!!!) was typical of their teaching for all lessons. Words or sentences are written on the chalkboard and the children just chant them after the teacher, followed by very long explanations. Then a child is invited to the front to read the words and the class chants after the child. Following this they copy the writing from the board into their exercise books (if they have them). From what I saw, this seems to happen for all subjects, all the time.

Although I had heard and read much about the schools it still didn’t prepare me for seeing it in the flesh. What I saw was unbelievably and incredibly heartbreaking. Nothing remotely like schools as I know them. It brings tears to my eyes every time I think of it.

Monday 4 October 2010

Language difficulties

I am getting used to the Nigerian accents and I’m even beginning to use this to tell the difference between some of the tribes. But I still feel as if we are both speaking different languages!

The Hausa tribe are easy to identify because they constantly muddle up the f and the p sound for example; the children’s farents; let me helf you; five foint three; how do you peel? The reason for this is because they don’t have the letter ‘p’ in their alphabet and the letter ‘f’ has a ‘pah’ sound. This has taken me a long time to stop focusing on it and get used to it.

Hausas also muddle up the ‘s’ sound with the ‘th’ sound. For example they may pronounce this as thith or somthing as thomthing. Although this is less frequent than the f and p confusion, it is still distracting.

The phrase ‘well done’ can be used at any time as a way of stating that everything is fine. You may hear it said when you sit down at the desk, after you have said hello to someone or after you have bought something at the market. It feels like I am being congratulated on writing my name or putting my seatbelt on!

There are over 200 Nigerian languages and the main form of communication between the different tribes is in English. As the standard of English varies Nigerians ofen shout at one another to make themselves understood, especially on the phone.

When speaking Hausa it is very important to pitch the word correctly. If you change the pitch of a syllable in a word it could mean something completely different. Because of this and the directness of the conversations it often feels like you are in trouble and being told off by. It also gives little scope for intonation for ease of listening.

I find it quite annoying that so many phrases in ESSPIN are written and spoken in acronyms. Some simple examples are that the Headteacher is called HT and the State Team Leader is called the STL. It is like speaking in code.

So it is no wonder that I am finding it difficult to follow any passage of speech by a Nigerian, not forgetting that they speak for long periods without stopping. And as I often can’t understand them, I am quite sure that they can’t understand me either. A proven example of this is after the volleyball coach had given his speech at the end of practise, I then went to him individually to clarify the times of the next practise. Even after a one to one conversation, where I double checked that I had understood everything he said, I turned up the next day at the time that it was just finishing! We clearly hadn’t understood each other!

Here are some interesting phrases that Nigerians use:
Let me ease my self – I need the toilet.
Go and pick Chioma/ Let me pick you – Go and pick Chioma up/ I will collect you.
On the computer / Off the light – Turn on the computer / Turn off the light
One-one / small-small / twenty-twenty – One / Small / Twenty
No, I’m satisfied – I don’t need a drink, thanks.
Greet Magaji – Say hi to Magaji
Uhhhhhh- HUH / exACTly / It’s true – Yes (in agreement) (You must emphasise very strongly where I have put capitals)

Thursday 30 September 2010

United Bank of Africa - UBA

During my first few days of In Country Training we were advised by VSOs Big Man on how to open a bank account so we can be paid our allowance. At this point the new volunteers had no idea how difficult this would be.

You will be proud to know that I am actually the only VSO I know of in Nigeria that has managed to open an account, and it was pretty easy too!

Cutting a very long story (of 4 visits and several text messages from the bank manager) short I now have, not only a bank account, but also a chip and pin :0)

I have highlighted 4 points to give you a sense of UBA

• I have no idea why I find it so difficult but I always have trouble entering the bank. Only one person is allowed to enter or leave the bank at a time and for a few moments you are enclosed in a capsule and you have to surrender your phone above your head! I somehow manage to always step in wrongly and delay the procedure. I have discovered it is best to leave your bag (including phone and purse) in the car.

• The most shocking part was that, on my 4th visit, as soon as I had collected my debit card from one assistant and my pin number from a another, the banks guard (who is now my friend, Harry) took them both from me and proceeded out through the door first, leaving me inside, while he was outside with my card and pin number!!! This would never happen in England. When I joined him outside he then took me to the ATM and showed me how to use it step by step! I think he thought that because I always have trouble getting through the electronic door that I also needed help with withdrawing cash!

• There was no sense of order. I handed over passport photos on the first visit and then on the second, when they were needed, Jayne, the assistant emptied an A4 brown envelope of small passport photos onto the desk and proceeded to sift through them until she found mine. Also 2 huge piles of pin numbers were flicked through until my name was found! Ever heard of alphabetical order?

• My last highlight is that my colleague, whom I had never been to the bank with, was told on his visit to the bank that my debit card was ready to pick up! I have no idea how they know we work together. Also another time, when I was in Abuja, a text said ‘when you are back in Jigawa. . . !‘ How did they even know I had left Jigawa? Now I realise that I am living in a small town!

VSO office and other volunteers are all amazed that I have managed to open a bank account. Temporary visas and photocopies of passports were not accepted by the bank managers in their towns. I feel honoured to be accepted here in Dutse.

Tuesday 21 September 2010

Abracadabra

I am in a new town this week: Kaduna. There are 4 other VSOs living here, one of whom is also on the Class Teacher training workshop.

I learnt 2 amazing facts today. One, wonderful fact which will make you raise your eyebrows and smile, the other will make you very sad and subdued.

2. Only 17 out of 21,000 teachers assessed scored 80% on a teacher baseline assessment which is about the equavelent to Year 4 level of maths, reading and punctuaion skills! This was for a state in the south of Nigeria. Our results in the North are yet to be published and are apparantly even more shocking!

1. I randomly learnt (not part of the workshop) that abra ka dabra probably originated from Arabic. Apparently 'ka' means 'like' so the phrase translates something like - let this be like that - which makes complete sense when you wave your wand to cast a spell! I love it!

Monday 20 September 2010

The Kennedys

This post is dedicated to my wonderful family :0)

They were most upset that only Fiona got a mention in my first blog post because we did the car boot sale together. So this was taken on my last night in England and as you can see, they are very happy that I am going! So happy in fact, that I have only received one phone call from them collectively so far. A phone call in which I had to arrange a time for them to phone me!

However we are getting the hang of Skype, which is brilliant, and we are perfecting the few second time delay, a skill for me which I have to get used to when conversing with Nigerians. Before you ask your simple question here you must spend 5 minutes giving the background, then you can ask the question. All this has to be done without pausing for breath. If you wait for clarification or a simple ‘yes’ confirmation (like a nod of the head) then you won’t have chance to finish what you are saying! They will have jumped in and answered whatever they want and will be talking for the next five minutes without pausing or checking that you are understanding, following or even listening!

This is similar to the Skype time delay conversations. If you pause mid point, like you normally do in conversations for people to agree or give a gesture, etc. then conversation gets confusing.

Here are my dedicated family doing the final carboot sale was done with the last of my stuff. Another £43 was raised for VSO. Thank you.
Also, thank you to everyone who has additionally donated through just giving. :0)

Friday 17 September 2010

Barka da Sallah (Happy Sallah)


On Wednesday we all left the office early to begin the Sallah celebrations which ends the fasting of Ramadan. I managed to get a lift to Kano, a very busy, large, ancient city, for 5 days to meet up with Sophie and 13 other VSOs who had all travelled from various states!

As you can see, Sophie has real fun accommodation. Her house is spread around the outside of a courtyard with huge trees in the middle. The bedrooms, toilet (as shown in the photo), shower, kitchen and lounge area are all doors off the courtyard. As you can see the lounge area doesn’t have walls all the way around but just mosquito netting and so whenever you wanted to go to another room you had to pass through the courtyard. This made it feel like you were living outside and reminded me of camping.

There is no running water except for one small tap in the garden so every morning when the water was running we had to fill up big dustbins, one in the toilet, one in the shower and one in the kitchen. (Notice Sophie filling buckets). As far as I could tell, the water only


runs for a few hours each morning if you are lucky. Fortunately we all managed to throw the cold water over ourselves each morning and called it a shower! Flushing the toilet takes an incredible amount of water so that definitely had to be rationed.







Many strange and wonderful things happened to us in Kano during the Sallah break;

• The first morning the Muslims broke the fast Sophie and I were trying (everywhere was closed) to get phone credit breakfast for everyone. Back and forward across the street, amid the cries of ‘Barka da Sallah’ a random man, who was from Sudan, came chasing after us. He said he had seen Sophie out and about and wanted to invite her to eat with his family. So. . . leaving hungry VSOs behind, we followed him into his house and ate with the female members of his family!

• One of my colleagues invited us to his village which was on the outskirts of Kano, so 2 of us went in his car and met his extended family, friends and had a tour of the pottery. We were fed a lot of food as you can see, but they didn’t join us in the eating and drinking; just watched us! We also met his grandmother who they said was 106 years old! (Grandmother is second from left, my colleague is in the middle with his aunties.)









We somehow managed to get into the Emir’s palace (the Muslim religious leader) to watch the Durbar (horse parades representing each district in Kano) by just flashing our VSO ID cards! I include this photo because it shows the policeman in black with his large gun casually taking photos on his camera phone! You can also see that it is women and children who had to sit on the dirt at the front while men and foreigners got the seats! If at any time the females stood up there was a huge roar from the men that they couldn’t see.

• The next day Sophie had a friend who amazingly managed to get all 11 of us VSOs into the Government House to meet the Emir. All the heads of districts came and bowed down to him and then there was a speech from the Emir, followed by the Governor. We were sat just 3 rows behind the Emir. (He is wearing the red hat on the bottom right). At several points his chief guard stood up and opened his glittery cloak to shield him, like a huge butterfly!

Here I am sharing lunch with the Emir and the Governor!


• After the lunch we were taken out through the deserted kitchen and down the back alleys, literally terrifyingly and amazingly weaving in and out of hundreds of parading horses to get the best spot to see the Emir parade past (under the gold umbrella).



• After a rest and an Indian buffet lunch I then went exploring (by motorbike) with a Kenyan VSO, to various markets, the dye pits and to the top of Dala hill where you have a full view of the city.

After writing this I now realise why I have been so tired this week at work. I have also been moving into my accommodation this week! Further stories to come!

P.S. See Jenny's blog for more Durbar information. She highlights different points from me!

Tuesday 7 September 2010

Short Stories by Lucy in Dutse (don’t pronounce the ‘t’ in Dutse)

1. Three (out of many) brilliant statements made by my colleague:
“You are not looking so smart today in your knickers!” said to my friend who was wearing cropped trousers.
“I will give you five minutes. This is a one minute exercise.” said to participants at the workshop.
“I will answer this question quickly as time is against us.” 25 minutes later he stopped talking!

Me, my colleague Kalli, and the consultant Barbara who came for the Financial Planning Workshop. Barbara secretly bought me a kettle and mugs as a surprise for my new accommodation ready for when I finally move.

2. On my first night, I was woken by the rattling of the windows, the howling of the wind and the sound of heavy rain on the roof. Outside the trees were wildly blowing and the rumble of thunder was continuous along with the bright flashes of lightning that flickered constantly. The next morning I mentioned to the driver about the huge storm and he shot me down sharply, shouting, “No, no, no! Not a storm! Just the rain!”

3. The ESSPIN office is very posh, as nice as any in England. But, as it is has become too crowded, they have asked for more office space within the States Education Board office area. After requesting the new offices to be cleaned and swept on the previous day, the deputy office manager declared that the office move would take place this morning.
So, the drivers piled in about 5 large bags/boxes of documents and 8 of us got promptly driven to the new offices.

Upon arrival it turns out that there are only 2 very small offices with 2 very small desks in each room! It was immediately clear that we would not all fit. While I squeezed quietly into a corner, the 7 large Nigerian men, in billowing white robes, undertook long, loud discussions, much moving of furniture, (which resulted in a broken desk) plenty of movement between the offices along with lots of opening and closing of doors.

I was sent back to the ESSPIN office, laughing to myself in disbelief at the disorganisation of the procedure. It has been announced that I will be used as bait, for speed of gaining the extra office required as soon as possible. (This happened a month ago and have heard nothing yet!)

4. One morning I borrowed Igwe’s (guest house manager’s) clean shiny bike to do some exercise, not realising that is had no gears, the brakes didn’t work and the saddle would not stay upright! I still managed to cycle for half an hour, awkwardly hovering on the saddle and carefully crossing the roads. I guess all of their bikes are like this, or worse and often they are carrying huge loads too.

5. On Saturday mornings I trek (the word ‘walk’ is not understood for some reason, so you go trekking everywhere) to the local field to run around the football pitch. It is full of adults (95% men) playing football, running, athletics, basketball and squash. This week I was asked to join the local girls’ volleyball team. Although not a huge fan of volleyball, I luckily did myself proud as they quickly realised I was a good setter. Although if you did not shout “A-MEN” after every point you won then the coach got really cross with you. Twice the coach made girls roll in the dirt for doing a bad pass and if they did it again he said he would make them roll in muddy puddle!! He said, “One day you will thank me for the punishments.” Despite the abuse I am going back again. I enjoyed the singing and dancing warm ups and the female company.

6. The best part about living in the guest house is that you get to meet many interesting people. Last week, the 3 new guests took me to the local Greek restaurant each night, trekking in the dark, through the mud and in the rain!
On the last night I ordered pounded yam and vegetable soup. The pounded yam has a consistency like play dough and the vegetable soup is not watery, but a moist mash of vegetables, mainly spinach. You are supposed to eat this kind of dish with your fingers.
Although I have already had some practise at this, I get a bit nervous as I know the Nigerians are watching me proudly enjoy their dinner in their manner. Of course, you get really messy and the nerves made my hand slightly shake! So I ate really fast to get it over with. Then, the Nigerian man sitting opposite me promptly ordered me some more because he thought I loved it so much!! Luckily it did taste good.

Here I am in the restaurant eating with my fingers.

7. After a week of eating out in the local Greek restaurant that sold no Greek food and had the same 4 dishes on the menu each night, a visiting consultant made up this limerick for me:
There was a young lady called Lucy
Who came out to work here in Dutse,
She stopped eating ham,
'Cause she loved pounded yam
With vegetable soup and egusi.

8. One of the guards taught me the trick to having clean smelling clothes, which I was pleased about as one of the things I was starting to miss was fresh, clean clothes. You spray room freshener on them as you iron them.

Friday 27 August 2010

Facilitators and Participants


So this week, supported by an excellent consultant, we delivered the Financial Planning workshop to the State School Improvement Team. (See previous post)

Surprisingly I wasn’t nervous, and I have discovered that teaching adults is just the same as teaching children! For some reason, it is really important that you are called the facilitator and they are the participants. As you can see from the second photo, they love to take their shoes off whenever they can. Also 4 new female members have been recruited, which will provide excellent role models in the schools and workplaces.

These lizards, some as big as my foot, fascinate me. They have been scurrying around the workshop, running very fast, perched up high on their feet. Then they stop, bob their heads up and down quickly and look around. Their skin reminds me of a plastic toy. They are everywhere in Dutse and although I do get a bit nervous if they come close, they are harmless and run away from you.

Our workshop has been very successful and I have especially enjoyed living with the consultant who has been staying with me in the guesthouse. I am off to Kano, a busier town about 2 hours away this weekend, to visit another VSO.

Thursday 19 August 2010

Aunty Lucy in Dutse

(Substitue the L for D in Lucy and you pronounce Dutse correctly!)

Strange things are happening to me here in Nigeria. I am drinking tea, and sort of enjoying it and I am dipping my chips in tomato ketchup! Those of you who know me well will realise this is not normal!

I am actually on a workshop in Abuja this week with 4 Nigerian colleagues from Jigawa which is the State I am working in. We are together with representatives from 4 other States in Nigeria. This is what we are trying to do: (I am only just beginning to understand the process so I hope it makes sense to you)

With support from ESSPIN, Jigawa’s Education Board have recently selected 30 people (all Muslim men) to create a team that gives support to head teachers, governors and school communities to help develop and make improvements in their schools. This team is called the State School Improvement Team (SSIT).

Very soon ESSPIN are going to give schools a small fund (150000 Naira = £650) so they can buy basic things like text books, chalk, stationary etc or they can use the money to fix broken furniture or repaint blackboards etc. The best way to spend the money would be on teacher training as recent results have shown that 70% of Year 6 Teachers scored less than 40% on the Year 6 end of year test papers! The money they spend has to relate to what is on their newly written School Development Plan. This funding is also an incentive to the Head Teachers to finish their School Self Evaluation and write a School Development Plan in which they have just had some training.

We are being trained to deliver financial management training to the SSIT. The SSIT will then deliver the training to the Head Teachers and governors. The training is vital so that schools will know how to spend the money wisely and account for it.

The training we are being given is very basic and alarmingly there is still a lot of confusion, debating and questioning. It is as basic as how to log what you have spent in a cash book and how to write a receipt! It is assumed that the SSIT will find it even more difficult to comprehend than we do!!!


I am really happy to be in Abuja, mainly to have contact with the other VSOs who are on the course. Ease of conversation and being understood is bliss. As the new VSO I am grateful for their advice and the chance to gossip and I am especially grateful to finally have some female company! As you can see I am enjoying a luxurious hotel with huge bed 3 pillows wide! Nigerians apparently are known for their huge beds.


Here we are enjoying beers by the pool with the other volunteers who are based in Abuja. We are either British, American, German or Canadian.

The strangest thing of all was that one of my work colleagues thought I was 50 years old! After a few guesses I left it as being under 40! I didn’t want to loose the wisdom and status that comes with being older. Igwe, the guest house manager, also told me not to tell anyone your age because if you are younger than them they will not listen to you!

Also I have been called Aunty a few times. I understand it to be a sign of acceptance and respect from others, but I am also now slightly worried that it also refers to someone older! I will inquire when I get back to Dutse.

Monday 9 August 2010

My First Week

VSO is an international organisation which can easily be demonstrated by the other new volunteers that joined me in Abuja, the capital city, for 3 days of In Country Training (ICT).
From the left we have James from Canada, me from the UK (as I now call my home country), Aurelia from Kenya, Simon from Uganda, Jayne also from Kenya and Bibin from India. 3 of us are working in the Education programme, 2 in the Secure Livilhoods (farming) programme and one in HIV/AIDs.

Towards the end of the training our employers came to meet us in Abuja and take us back to our placements. Luckily my 7 and a half hour journey to Jigawa was in a very comfortable, air conditioned car. Although, as it is considered unsafe to eat from roadside stalls, we had to wait until we arrived to eat lunch. As I was a bit nervous that morning I could barely eat breakfast so I was very grateful when dinner arrived!

My work in Jigawa is funded by ESSPIN (Education Support Programme in Nigeria). ESSPIN has been funded by DfID (Department for International Development). As my accommodation is not ready yet, I will be staying for a short (or maybe long) time in ESSPIN's guest house. This is a very comfortable apartment, apparantly better than the best/only hotel in town. I have air conditioning, TV, Internet (most of the time), water and electricity (even when the power goes as they have a generator). I am locked behind a high wall and a secure gate with friendly guards.

Igwe, who is the manager of the building, is also cooking me food and has walked me around the town. On Saturday he wanted to introduce me to the Police Station. As I nervously stepped through the door I was wondering who I would meet. But, as it turns out, I didn't see any police. The Police Station is a secret place to drink beer! And it is full of Muslims!

Jigawa, along with other Northern States, follows the Sharia Law, which is the sacred law of Islam and alcohol is forbidden in the state.

As I had a quiet weekend I decided to go the Catholic Church with Igwe, his wife and 7 month old daughter. 3 hours, in 30 degrees heat, crammed to bursting on hard wooden benches meant that everyone welcomed to time to go wildly dancing down the aisles to the altar where they were being showered with holy water! All the Nigerians were dressed in their best, with intricate headwear, while I strangely tied a scarf around my head.
PS I also met Emily, a VSO from Bournemouth! Can't remember who told me to look out for her though!

Thursday 5 August 2010

Welcome to Nigeria: First Day Drama

We have been constantly told that the biggest threat to our safety whilst working in developing countries is from road traffic accidents.

Following my first Nigerian lunch, and first tour of the capital city, Abuja, I was involved in a huge car accident! A car travelling at remarkable speed, through a massive cross junction which had 4 lanes in each direction, with no working traffic lights, or traffic warden directing the traffic, crashed straight into the front/ drivers side of the bonnet of our car. If they had crashed into the door, I think one of us would have been killed. Everyone is very lucky to be alive and to have no injuries at all!

Shocked and shaken, the 4 of us new volunteers were then sent back to the safety of the hotel in a taxi with: several cracks in the windscreen, no seatbelts in the back, and with a driver weaving in and out of cars at the speed of 100kph! Also none of us had a phone, no Nigerian money and no VSO emergency number!

3 hours later, after the police had arrived, drawn a map of the crash on an A4 piece of paper, both drivers finally agreed and signed the picture, and both cars towed to the police station, the VSO Programme Manager returns to the hotel (via taxi) to check on us.

The driving here in Abuja is really bad. Each road is anything from 3-6 lanes wide in each direction. They squeeze 4 cars into 3 lanes and the Toyota truck squeezes through gaps that I wouldn't even think my mini could fit through! They drive fast, and very close together, not just to the car in front but also to the left and right of you.

I have definitely learnt my lesson about road safety, although not really sure how I could have prevented that crash, plus I am going to carry all of the above on me at all times, including my first aid kit.

Having also been involved in a minor car crash in the UK the previous day, I urge everyone to be extra careful on the roads. Thanks!

Lucy x

Saturday 17 July 2010

Fundraising for VSO

I feel that my first post has to start with my fundraising efforts. Despite having now completed seven months of indepth research and training, I still struggle myself with understanding exactly how VSO works and what I am about to embark upon. So I will try my best to explain it to you.

We are told that VSO needs to raise £10million each year in the UK to continue its vital work and VSO have asked us volunteers to raise £900 to support this. Although £900 is a fraction of the total cost to recruit, train and send a volunteer to share skills in developing countries, it can obviously help, not only supporting funds, but also raising the awareness of what the charity is about.
My first fundraising effort was clearing out the majority of my household belongings that I have collected over the years and selling them at a carboot sale, very early in the morning. Anyone who came to our stall definitely walked away with a bargain. Fiona (my sister-in-law) and Dad helped out and we managed to raise £89!

My second attempt was organising an Art Exhibition at school. This involved gathering paintings, pictures and models from all classes in the school. Talented teachers, parents and other staff also displayed their work. With the support of my talented class, we advertised, promoted and opened the gallery. Visitors made a donation to view the gallery and then they bought any artwork they wished to purchase. There was a remarkable response and we managed to raise £211! Many thanks to everyone who helped to support this and make it a huge success, not just in raising money but in bringing the whole school community together in a new way.









Although I am only one third of the way into my fundraising target I have made a huge effort and feel that I have been very successful in raising the awareness of the goals of the VSO, sharing skills, at a community level to help fight poverty in the world's poorest countries.

If anyone else would like to support the charity please visit my fundraising page to the right hand side of this post. Also you may wish to browse the VSO website for futher information.